LED masks Beauty trend with light and shade
They glow in all colors, look like props from a sci-fi movie and promise porcelain skin: LED face masks are the latest favorite of beauty gurus. But what does the science say?
No time? blue News summarizes for you
- LED masks are based on medical light therapy, as used in dermatology practices for acne or after laser treatments, for example.
- Experts say that the light energy is often not sufficient to achieve the clinical effect when used at home.
- Studies have shown certain effects on the appearance of the skin, but a strong anti-ageing effect has not been scientifically proven.
- The risks are low as long as the masks are used correctly - especially when it comes to eye protection and duration of use.
- Those who are patient and use high-quality devices can benefit from subtle improvements and a fresher complexion.
With their bright glow, LED face masks are more reminiscent of futuristic Stormtrooper and cyberpunk costumes than wellness devices. The beauty trend is hyped by influencers, advertised by manufacturers as a miracle cure and is now also available for home use for a few hundred francs. Firmer skin, less acne, reduced pigmentation spots: Is this realistic?
In the 1990s, NASA researchers originally wanted to find out how plants could be grown in space under artificial light. They noticed this: Wounds on astronauts' hands healed faster under red LED light. This led to new research, including into skin health.
Today, many dermatologists use medical LED panels for acne, skin rejuvenation or to support wound healing after aesthetic treatments, among other things.
Limited effect at home
The trick: light waves hit certain cell components, such as the mitochondria, and stimulate processes such as healing and regeneration there. This principle can also be found in commercially available LED masks, which work with targeted colored light and over 100 LEDs in different wavelengths (see box). However, the decisive factor here is the energy emitted.
"It takes a certain number of joules per square centimeter to be effective. The energy of the device may not be enough," explains Ambroise Champion, oncologist at the Hôpital de La Tour in Geneva, on RTS radio in French-speaking Switzerland. Devices for home use can therefore often not have the same effect as professional panels in dermatology practices.
Studies still limited
Nevertheless, experts report positive effects. "LED masks can definitely smooth out fine wrinkles and give you a fresher complexion," says dermatologist Daniela Greiner-Krüger to the magazine "Apotheken Umschau".
With regular use - around 10 to 20 minutes, three to five times a week - users report a more even complexion, fewer blemishes and a fresher complexion.
Although some smaller studies support this impression, the data is considered limited - too small, inconsistent, often based on animal models. A comprehensive anti-ageing effect cannot be derived from this.
Appropriate eye protection is essential
The Swiss Society of Dermatology and Venereology (SGDV) is also critical of the evidence. It emphasizes to blue News: "There is no medical data on their effectiveness or safety."
Although no skin damage from LED masks has been reported to date, according to the SGDV, this could be due to the fact that the devices are not yet widely used or that they do not pose a short-term risk to the skin.
Nevertheless, caution is advised - especially for the eyes. "Suitable eye protection is essential," says Dr. Marion Moers-Carpi, a specialist in dermatology. Although many devices come with protective goggles, the following still applies: stick to the application time, do not look directly into the light and ideally keep your eyes closed.
Risks: When light becomes too much
- Even if the masks often have openings for the eyes, scattered light (especially blue light) can irritate the retina. Always wear the protective goggles provided or keep your eyes closed during treatment.
- More light = more effect? Wrong. Too long or too frequent use can stress the skin, cause irritation or redness. Blue light can even cause oxidative stress if overdosed - in other words, it can age the skin instead of rejuvenating it.
- People with skin conditions such as rosacea, lupus, fresh scars or who are taking light-sensitizing medication (e.g. antibiotics, retinoids) should only use LED masks after consulting a specialist.
- Devices without a CE mark or from dubious online stores can emit inaccurate or even dangerous radiation - in the worst case even UV components. A case like the recall of the Neutrogena mask in 2019 shows that even established brands can falter if safety concerns arise.
The light color or wavelength depends on the desired effect.
- Blue light (approx. 400-430 nanometers [nm]): Has an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effect. In dermatology, it is mainly used to treat acne, as it can destroy acne-causing bacteria. Clinical applications show that it can alleviate inflammation and support healing. It is also occasionally used as a complementary treatment for skin conditions such as neurodermatitis or psoriasis.
- Red light (approx. 550-630 nm): Penetrates deeper into the skin and can stimulate collagen formation, which can contribute to firmer skin and a smoothing of fine wrinkles. It also has an anti-inflammatory effect and can alleviate redness. Small studies have shown improvements in skin texture, such as wrinkles and pigmentation spots, with regular use. This has led to the US FDA approving certain red light devices as an anti-ageing treatment.
- Infrared light (approx. 780 nm): The invisible near-infrared light penetrates particularly deep into the tissue and heats it slightly. It can have an anti-inflammatory effect and is often combined with red light to reach deeper layers of the skin and muscles. In wellness applications, IR light is said to help reduce stress and relax the muscles. However, it also carries certain risks if used incorrectly, such as overheating.
- Green light (approx. 520-550 nm): Has a calming effect on the skin, promotes wound healing and is said to even out an uneven complexion. Manufacturers advertise that green LED light can reduce pigmentation spots and sun damage to achieve a fresher skin tone. However, the evidence for this is limited.
