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In the town of Ubud, the characteristic penjor—curved bamboo poles several meters high, decorated with palm leaves and other natural materials—are erected in front of houses, shops, and temples. Photo: Carola Frentzen/dpa
Keystone
The sweet scent of lotus and frangipani incense lingers in the air, and traditional gamelan music drifts from the houses: With offerings and colorful temple ceremonies, millions of Hindus in Bali have celebrated the symbolic return of their ancestors. The “Galungan” festival, one of the most important religious holidays on the Indonesian island, symbolizes—according to local belief—the victory of good over evil—and the temporary return of the spirits of deceased ancestors to their families.
For foreign visitors, the festival offered a rare glimpse into the religious traditions of the “Island of the Gods” from the early morning hours onward—traditions that, despite mass tourism, remain firmly rooted in the island’s daily life to this day. People had been preparing for “Galungan” for days. “This is a very special celebration for us. It’s very important for keeping everything in balance,” said Desi, an employee at a hotel in Ubud, a town popular with vacationers from all over the world.
The characteristic penjor—meter-high, curved bamboo poles decorated with palm and coconut leaves, fruits, and other natural materials—were erected in front of houses, shops, and temples. They symbolize prosperity and gratitude and are also meant to serve as a reminder of the sacred volcano Gunung Agung, the spiritual center of Balinese Hinduism. Tourists were also allowed to participate in decorating the penjor over the past few days.
Families visited temples, said prayers, and offered gifts to the gods and their ancestors. Most Balinese wore traditional festive attire, including the traditionally wrapped sarong, while women balanced colorful woven baskets on their heads.
For one day, public life focused strongly on family, community, and spirituality rather than on tourism. The festival period ends after ten days with “Kuningan.” According to Balinese belief, the ancestors then return to the spiritual world.