How a store near the Vatican prepared for Francis' death

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• The "Agorà Atelier" not far from the Vatican produced the liturgical mitre for the funeral of Pope Francis - many months before his death.
• Employee Leonardo Cardoza only found out the true purpose of the order when the Master of Ceremonies of the Holy See picked up the finished bishop's hat.
• Everything is made to measure in the studio; liturgical vestments and head coverings take four to six weeks to produce.

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A stole in wine red, embroidered all over with golden ornaments, next to a bishop's hat studded with pearls and dark stones with sweeping silver tendrils: anyone walking past the shop window of the "Agorà Atelier", just a few steps away from the Vatican, will see above all a glitter and shine.

"We don't make anything that just looks beautiful or shiny," explains Leonardo Cardoza to the Keystone-SDA news agency in Rome. "No stroke or bloom is accidental." Everything is carefully considered and based on a theological foundation, says the young man with the keen eye.

Cardoza explains that he has been studying sacred art for a long time and has studied this branch of art history. That is why he is in exactly the right place in this studio.

According to Cardoza, the main clientele consists of priests. However, high-ranking clergy such as bishops also commission liturgical vestments such as the stole or chasuble - for mass - from them. For cardinals, for example, they make the hat to measure, which can only be worn by people of their rank.

Exceptional order

"A very important customer for us is, of course, the Holy Father," says Cardoza with pride in his voice. When asked about the most unusual order, he mentions the mitre - the liturgical headdress - for the funeral of Pope Francis. The Pope also wears this "bishop's crown", as he is considered the Bishop of Rome. In his case, other components would simply be added, such as precious stones.

They only understood the occasion for which the bishop's crown had been ordered when the Master of Ceremonies of the Holy See picked up the finished work. It then became clear that it was in preparation for Francis' death. "That moment was very special."

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The Pope's master of ceremonies would prepare everything very early on, Cardoza continues. They are never late. For example, the order for the liturgical headdress for the funeral was received by the "Agorà Atelier" many months before Francis' death. "Orders from the Holy See are generally not work for us, but rather an honor," says Cardoza.

Work requires great care

Everything is made to measure in the atelier, Cardoza continues. They also produce special items, and special requests are always taken into consideration. "Every priest has a different taste in terms of colors and embroidery." Indeed, at the back of the studio you can see various eggshell-colored liturgical vestments - and each one is different. One is edged with gold thread, another is decorated with flower-like embroidery in dark silver.

It normally takes four to six weeks to make a liturgical vestment or headdress. According to Cardoza, a design is usually made first, and only after the priest or cardinal has approved it does the work on the fabric begin. "E un lavoroa accurato, un lavoro che si deve fare con calma" - "This work requires a lot of care and calm," he emphasizes.