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Milan is not only the cathedral, but also beautiful alleyways.
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Milan is much more than cathedral, design and dolce vita - if you get off the beaten track, you'll discover a city with style, substance and trendy districts that you wouldn't have expected.
Over eight million people visit Milan every year - but many stick to the classics: Milan Cathedral, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele or Leonardo da Vinci's famous Last Supper. Yet the city has much more to offer than its world-famous sights. If you leave the main routes or simply bring a little more time with you, you will discover a Milan that is more diverse than you thought. These tips will take you to places that don't appear in every photo album - but deserve to.
When visiting the city, you can't miss Milan Cathedral - literally. Because the building is gigantic. Taking a selfie on the forecourt is part of a classic visit to Milan. But if you don't want to wait in long queues, you can use the time you save to discover some of the city's less crowded but equally impressive highlights.
A special tip is the Torre Branca. The tower was designed in 1933 by the renowned designer Gio Ponti and is still considered a symbol of futuristic elegance today. While the crowds throng the roof of the cathedral, you can often enjoy the view of the Castello Sforzesco, the modern skyline of Porta Nuova and, on a clear day, even the Alps from the Torre Branca. Special tip: The atmosphere here is wonderful at sunset, when the warm light bathes the rooftops of Milan in a romantic atmosphere.
Not far away is the next highlight, the Bosco Verticale. The "vertical forest" is an architectural masterpiece in the modern Porta Nuova district. The two high-rise residential buildings seem to be inspired by the idea of the urban jungle: Over 900 trees, 5,000 shrubs and 11,000 plants adorn the balconies and terraces. Like a modern version of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, this green building project stacks nature and urbanity on top of each other.
The Bosco Verticale is famous beyond the city limits.
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An oversized middle finger rises into the air in front of the stock exchange on the elegant Piazza Affari. The sculpture entitled L.O.V.E. is by Italian artist Maurizio Cattelan - known for his provocative works. Officially, the title stands for Libertà, Odio, Vendetta, Eternità (Freedom, Hate, Vengeance, Eternity). In the middle of the financial district, the art serves as an ironic statement.
The L.O.V.E. sculpture is world-famous for its provocative gesture.
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Art lovers should then plan a detour to the Fondazione Prada in the south of the city. This impressive cultural space offers an exceptional setting for contemporary art. Beyond the classic white museum spaces, you will find a veritable interplay of architecture and art between rough concrete, shimmering gold facades and renovated industrial halls. The gold leaf-clad tower and the Bar Luce café, designed by Wes Anderson, are particularly well known for their playful retro charm. Perfect for filming a Wes Anderson-style city tour.
The Navigli district along the small canal could be mistaken for a tourist beach promenade in Ibiza. Navigli was once an insider tip - today there feels like a waiting list for the last free spot on the waterfront. One bar follows another here. If you want to escape the crowded bars, retreat to the quiet side streets of the district. However, there are also districts that offer an even more relaxed alternative for the "Usgang" or simply an Aperol Spritz.
Porta Romana is located south-east of the city center and is one of the more upscale residential areas of Milan. The name goes back to the city gate of the same name, which once marked the southern entrance to the city. Today, the district is particularly popular with Milanese who appreciate a quiet but central location.
Along the Corso di Porta Romana and in the adjacent side streets, you will find numerous traditional trattorias, small bars, wine stores and elegant boutiques - many of which are family-run. The wellness resort QC Terme Milano is also located here in a former streetcar depot. Perfect for those who prefer to enjoy their drink in the spa.
Those looking for the opposite of relaxation will find it in Isola. North of Garibaldi station, you will find the alternative creative scene. Between colorful walls full of street art, designer stores and small cafés, Isola invites you to stroll through vintage stores. You can enjoy a limoncello with an aperitif in the bars around Via Pastrengo. And: the Bosco Verticale rises up in the middle of it all.
The NoLo district - short for North of Loreto - is (still) less well known. Located to the north of the central Piazza Loreto, this formerly inconspicuous residential area has developed into the Italian version of the SoHo district in recent years. In addition to stylish stores, there is a mix of old tenements, street art, pop-up galleries and a growing range of small bars and cafés. NoLo may still be an insider tip, but it is spreading like wildfire among those in the know.
New meeting places for a young, creative crowd are emerging, particularly around Via Varanini and the Mercato Comunale in Viale Monza. International cuisine - from Indian to Peruvian to Korean - is just as much a part of the scene here as vintage stores, second-hand markets and alternative art projects.
The Brera district is worth a visit.
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The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is undoubtedly an architectural masterpiece. With its glass domes and mosaic floors, it looks like a catwalk. As a shopping experience, however, it often turns out to be more of a test of patience: between luxury brands, selfie sticks and groups of tourists, there is usually little left of a relaxed shopping spree. However, a visit to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II would not be complete without a quick look down - or to be more precise, at the testicles of a bull. In the middle of the gallery, a mosaic of Turin's coat of arms is embedded in the floor, complete with a bull motif. Legend has it that if you step on the bull's testicles with the heel of your right foot and turn on your own axis, it will bring you good luck.
Milanese people smile, tourists line up, while the mosaic is clearly showing signs of wear. However, those who want to experience Milan's style beyond the Gucci and the crowds will find refuge in quieter passages and creative districts.
The Brera district, which seems surprisingly relaxed despite its central location, is considered Milan's artists' quarter. With its narrow cobbled streets, ornate wooden doors and atmosphere, it is more reminiscent of a village than a fashion metropolis. Around Via Fiori Chiari, small antique stores, art bookshops and concept stores invite you to browse.
The 5vie District is just a few steps away. Hidden between the Duomo and Sant'Ambrogio is one of the oldest and most historic districts in the city. The district owes its name to the five small streets that intersect here in a star shape and form a labyrinth. Here you can get lost between Roman walls, courtyards and design galleries. You won't find big brand names here, but you will find individual fashion, handmade handicrafts, curated vintage pieces and quiet squares.
Further east, in the Lambrate district, things get louder, more colorful and more urban: once a month, the East Market Milano transforms a huge industrial hall into a modern flea market with cult status. Here you can meet young designers, collectors, vintage fans and street food lovers from all over the city. Between records, sneakers, retro furniture and hand-printed T-shirts, you can browse, haggle, laugh and eat. Entry costs a few euros, but the experience is priceless.
Right next to Milan Cathedral - or would you prefer a little further away?
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The view is great, the drink a classic, but if you sit down at the Terrazza Aperol right on the cathedral square, you not only get an Aperol Spritz, but also a surcharge for the location, lots of hustle and bustle and selfie sticks included. The view of the cathedral through the orange glass may be worth it for a quick Instagram photo. But if you want to pay less, drink better and still stay in style, there are plenty of alternatives with atmosphere in Milan
A real hidden gem can be found near the Porta Romana. Hidden behind inconspicuous walls is the Fonderie Milanesi, a bar with industrial charm, fairy lights and an atmospheric inner courtyard.
Tucked away between the 5Vie district and the quieter corners of Ticinese is UGO, a charming retro-style bar with velvet armchairs, old globes and cocktails that come across as stylish, making you feel like you're in a black-and-white Hitchcock classic. Ideal for a quiet drink after a stroll through the alleyways of the old town.
If you still haven't had enough of Milan at the end of the day, you should end the evening in a very special place where style, history and scene come together: in the Bar Basso. In the birthplace of the famous Negroni Sbagliato, it is said that the drink was accidentally mixed with Prosecco instead of gin. Today, the drink is cult, just like the bar itself: red velvet chairs, bartenders in white jackets, drinks in oversized glasses. Instead of a hipster trend, real history is served. During Design Week, it becomes a meeting place for the creative scene. If you manage to get a seat, you'll get a taste of Milan - with ice cubes.
You can also find more tips on Milan on Mycation.
